MARK DUNHAM visits Ynyshir Hall and discovers a stunning oasis with a Michelin star restaurant in the secret heart of Wales
View of the countryside surrounding the hotel
I can’t believe I didn’t know this glorious haven existed before being invited to stay a few weeks ago. In fact it is such a find, I am reluctant to tell you about it. However if you want to swap the sounds of the city for the music of birdsong then Ynyshir Hall, nestled at the foot of the Cambrian mountains, is little short of heaven.
Situated on the Dyfi Estuary in Powys, mid-Wales, this 10 bedroom hotel, which won the AA Hotel of The Year, Wales 2014-2105, dates from the 15th century and is set in glorious gardens surrounded by views of the mountains.
Formerly owned by Queen Victoria who loved the birdlife on the estate and was responsible for planting many of the trees, the hotel was bought 25 years ago by Joan and Rob Reen.
They have created a rural idyll in this Welsh hotspot not far from the town of Machynlleth, famed for its Centre of Alternative Technology, and the quirky seaside resort of Aberdovey with its golf course and miles of sandy beach.
It is also situated next to one of Britain’s finest bird reserves, RSPB Ynys-Hir, where the BBC television series Springwatch is filmed.
Shortly after dawn one day I strolled across the hotel grounds into the reserve. The quiet of the early morning was interrupted only by the thrilling chorus of bird song. A wonderland for bird lovers and a magical spot to wonder and wander; the reserve is now part of the renowned ‘Osprey Project’.
After a bracing walk it was lovely to return to Ynyshir Hall and sink into one of the comfy sofas in the colourfully-decorated lounge and watch the sun stream through the windows. I can imagine nestling in a similar spot after a night’s star gazing. The air is so clear here and with so little light pollution is ideal to gaze skyward on a cloudless night at the myriad of twinkling stars.
The stars continue at ground level too particularly in the dining room where Michelin-star chef Gareth Ward, awarded the Good Food Guide’s Chef to Watch in 2015, cooks up some of the most imaginative food in Wales in the hotel’s restaurant.
The restaurant
We sampled an impressively experimental ‘taster’ menu comprising 11 courses.
From the delicate flavours of mackerel with black sesame and fermented cabbage, to the novelty of a beef fudge we delighted in every plate.
We tried wild duck with elder and chicory and experienced the artistry and magic of both dry ice and liquid nitrogen matched with a superb, and well chosen, wine list.
The beautifully-maintained gardens of sweeping lawns and fascinating variety of plants add to the sense of peace and tranquillity at Ynyshir Hall. And of course the changing scenery makes this a charming spot to visit year round.
It’s also ideally located for exploring the spectacular Welsh countryside. Many of the walks start from the hotel, which can equip you with a packed lunch if you fancy a wander off the beaten track. 
Returning to a traditional Welsh tea is something I highly recommend. For £15 a head the hotel serves a mouth-watering variety of sandwiches, choice of savoury and sweet scones, Welsh cakes and bara brith (welsh bread with fruit).
You can even enjoy home-made butter and the more unusual marmite butter.
You may, however, struggle with the 11-course dinner menu after this. So opt for lighter menu choices or later dining slot.
Last year the hotel unveiled a new Holistic Wellness Centre which offers a broad range of exotic treatments, ranging from Reiki and massages to Chinese Energy Healing and Mindful Meditation Walking. Ideal for those looking for some indulgent pampering or with sore muscles and old bones in need of reinvigorating.
Comfy sofas in the hotel front lounge
The rooms, named after modern painters, are spacious and comfortable with similarly bright, cheery, colour schemes as you will discover in the rest of the hotel. Ours had a vast bathroom, a welcome feature for me as I stand 6ft 4in. And of course they all come equipped with flat screen TVs, tea and coffee making and WiFi.
The public face of the superbly efficient and polite staff is Cate Griffiths. She enthuses, “The wonderful thing about this area is that there is something for everyone whether your interest is diverse habitats, lakes, estuaries or woodland.”
Indeed, many local activities can even be organised by the hotel including golf (there are a number of good courses within striking distance), pony trekking, fishing, clay pigeon shooting and cycling.
Not only is the area protected as an official ‘UNESCO protected biosphere’, there is plenty to discover year round, from the endless sandy beaches in summer to gentle walks through the hillsides and along the river in winter.
There are villages and towns to visit too; don’t miss the Halo Factory shop in Tywyn which sells the most delicious honey ice-cream. For us, the cafes and gift shops in the pretty town of Dolgellau made for a delightful break along the picturesque drive to the slate mine in Betws-y-Coed.
Dolgellau is not far from Cader Idris, a popular mountain for hikers at the southern end of the Snowdonia National Park.
If, however, you prefer to stay local, then the old town of Aberystwyth is only a short drive. Home to the National Library of Wales, which not only houses a huge collection of books on art, but a most impressive range of volumes on culture and history. For me this is the ideal place to hide away for a few hours either before or after the bracing hike; or even instead of.
Rooms at Ynyshir Hall, Eglwysfach, Powys, Wales, SY20 8TA cost from £215.00 a night inclusive of breakfast, based on two sharing. Dinner, Bed & Breakfast from £315.00 a night based on two sharing. For more information visit www.ynyshir.co.uk / 01654 781209
[mappress mapid=”116″]
